1960 - The first ascent of Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world, one of the most formidable and deadliest to climb. The Nepalese have always seen its peak like a white castle, floating over the clouds; धौलागिरी(White Mountain): that’s how they call it.

Notorious for its bad weather, the Dhaulagiri massif is steadily tormented by storms and avalanches. It is not therefore surprising that 60years ago it was one of the last 8.000m yet to be conquered.

Here you’ll read the legendary tale of its conquest. A story of success and sacrifice, toil and glory, written by a group of courageous pioneers on an indelible day of May.

1960. After bringing together 16 expert alpinists from five different countries the Swiss Max Eiselin decided it was time to play his chance to reach the top of the white mountain. In his team there was the legendary 28 years old Kurt Diemberger from Austria who, just like the whole team, was equipped with his favourite Dolomite boots.

The team was determined to try something never done before: approaching the majestic peak with a plane, landing on a glacier and from there launching the final assault to the summit.

But, like any story that is worth telling, the unexpected was right behind the corner and the 5th of May the plane “Yeti” crashed. Nobody was luckily injured but the disaster forced the team to split into three geographically isolated groups.

Kurt Diemberger found himself into the nearest one from the mountain top: a handful of men which didn’t waste any time to acclimatize and prepare the final assault.

But the Himalayan gods didn’t seem to be so indulgent about Diemberger and his teammates. Day after day, the wildest blizzards hindered the way to the peak, leaving the expedition on the razor’s edge.

Until they decided to bless and reward the courage of this men.

13th MAY 1960, after a resilient and incredible climb without oxygen, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Dienner, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert and the sherpas Nawang Dorje and Nima Dorje made it to the summit. The sky was blue and clear, the storm and ominous clouds had given way to joy, satisfaction and the certainty of having written a legendary and indelible page in the history of mountaineering.