The japan you don't know - The most wild and ancient island in the world: Yakushima

To an ordinary man, this rocky outpost of trees and nothing could seem trivially beautiful: full of giant tropical plants, black and round rocks, granite, greenery, hawks, silence, the smell of smoked fish, beaches, the almost absence of cars. Yakushima is an enchanted place, where mother nature is a constant presence in and manifests itself in her vegetation sometimes adorable and violent, others intrusive and wild, but always a show that makes you come back small and serene.

Everywhere around us, the magical atmosphere of a millennial forest and the power of an indomitable vegetation. Hundreds of small creatures are observing.

The island has left the man with a single coastal road that never penetrates the heart of the island, ever. No resort, no entertainment, no bar after 9pm, no music, only serene hearts of placid trekkers and their respect without words for this earth sanctuary and its mystery

It rains, but it’s a strange rain. It almost seems a lifeblood, that pours down the forest, giving life to the wildlifes.

Some days later

After a sunny day spent fighting the furious wind that sweeps away our igloo, we move our base camp in a makeshift dormitory which is a simple wooden room a few meters from a cove in which together with Japanese people, we wait for the storm to subside.

We wake up the very next day at 4 am, as we want to make sure to walk to the center of the island, getting back before sunset. We prepare our backpacks, food and ropes to get to the heart of that place that gave birth to the most famous cartoon of Miyazaki: "Princess Mononoke" (now I understand why!).

We walk 10 hours under a never-ending shower coming from big black clouds. Every millimeter of my body drips of water; nevertheless, I’m happy: the rain makes animals to go off from their nests and lairs.

Our legendary Dolomite shoes, companions of a thousand adventures, accompany us also in this magical moment. Even though my wallet and all my documents and money are soaking wet, this seems nothing compared to the peace that this space gives you back. To warm our hearts, a solitary path that reveals us at its end the oldest cedar in the world, of over than 1000 years.

Oh, if only I could write the powerful peace that fills this moment with transcendence! I would write for hours and hours, yet in doing so I would say less and less of this violent beauty that surround us.

No touristic tours nor cable cars arrives here. The beauty – the real one – must be conquered once again. It’s only then, if you make to get here, you will feel inside the inexplicable magic of this charming place, called Yakushima.